After the tomato fields in Mission Valley had been picked over, Angelo Alessio's father would take him and his brothers to go through the culls. The rejects would be used in Alessio family meals for the week.
It was the 1920s and the family with seven sons – scraping by on money made shining shoes and cleaning a pool hall and barbershop – was just starting its ascent from poverty to an era of wealth, power and success.